Cultural Appropriation in Fashion

Prada recently faced criticism for selling high-end 'toe ring sandals' reminiscent of the traditional Indian kolhapuri chappals without crediting the artisans of Maharashtra. These artisans have been crafting these sandals by hand for centuries using tan buffalo hide, babul bark, and myrobalan.

The Issue of Cultural Appropriation

• Worldwide, cultural appropriation is a contentious topic, particularly with the rise of Eastern markets.
• Western fashion brands like Stella McCartney, Gucci, and others have been accused of appropriating cultural elements.
• The debate often oversimplifies into binaries of high vs. low culture, or first vs. third world, which benefits luxury brands.

Intellectual Property and Global Recognition

• India struggles with protecting its cultural products due to weak GI regulations and ineffective IP laws.
• Since 1990, India has incurred a net deficit of $90 billion in IP receipts.
• Other nations like Chile, Scotland, and France effectively protect and market their cultural products, enhancing their global standing.

Efforts and Examples of Positive Cultural Exchange

• Prada has expressed an intention to collaborate with Indian artisans.
• Brands like Dior and Gucci have successfully engaged with local artisans in India, giving them acknowledgment and sharing proceeds.
• Examples of cultural patronage include Fendi and Bulgari's contributions to restoring iconic sites in Rome.

India's Attitude Towards Its Cultural Heritage

• India often undervalues its traditional crafts and waits for global acknowledgment before appreciating them.
• Historic instances include Satyajit Ray's initial local rejection before gaining international acclaim.
• Foreigners like Sally Holkar and John Bissell have played key roles in reviving Indian crafts and creating global brands.

To preserve its cultural heritage, India must champion and develop its value chains rather than wait for outside validation.